Dubai is a city that defies expectations. Built in a manner similar to SimCity on easy mode with soaring skyscrapers jostling for prominence alongside seven lane freeways. The Burj Khalifa pierces the cityscape as an active demonstration of the power, wealth and imagination that the UAE has at its disposal. Yet at the street level, less affluent suburbs house vibrant (albeit sanitised) communities that reveal a broader diversity to Dubai compared to the portrayal of epic shopping malls, opulent accommodation and contrived villages.
Queuing up in passport control, it quickly became apparent that the UAE has a distinct class system that views statehood as an important delineator of wealth, education, safety and health. Australians and other similar Western passengers barely raised an eyebrow of the Emiriati, while travellers from Asia and the subcontinent enjoyed the full treatment of interrogation, retinal scans and facial recognition.
In the city itself, the demography reveals much about the Emirate's history, culture and future. The indigenous Emiriati only constitute about 10-20% of the population, yet clearly have a stranglehold on the vast wealth and political clout in the country. In the last 10 years, the UAE has experienced very high waves of migration as it has imported significant quantities of workers from India and Asia to fulfil most service jobs. These workers consider themselves lucky to be in Dubai, yet are lowly paid (~ $200 pm), live 8 to a two bed apartment, and only see their wives and children in their native countries once every two years.
Most striking about the demography is the significant amount of men compared to women. Travelling on the impressive metro system, it can be difficult to notice a single female in the carriage - of course, this could be exacerbated by the ladies only carriage that is provided at the front of the autonomously driven train. On the street, particularly in the old Dubai region, the men congregate in groups of 3-4 and are seemingly quite affectionate, which is surprising considering the lack of tolerance for the extension of such activity in this highly religious country.
The UAE is unapologetically Islamic, yet does so in a modern and progressive manner that retains much of its Arabic heritage. Beautiful mosques scatter the landscape and the calls to prayer are played inside the expansive shopping centres. The working week is Sunday to Thursday, while Friday is the day of worship. Men and women walk around in traditional dress, however this was explained in terms of pragmatic fashion and cultural heritage rather than religion; which in practical terms reveals the true interplay between secular vision and religious belief, where the expectation of wearing a burqa is as equally expected as driving a Porsche.
Next stop: Cairo.
